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Heroic Sherpa Rescues Malaysian Climber in Daring Mount Everest Operation

2023 saw 12 fatalities—the highest number in eight years

June 1, 2023
Reading Time:3 mins read
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Adrian Ballinger/AP Climbers call the air above 8,000 meters "The Death Zone."

Adrian Ballinger/AP Climbers call the air above 8,000 meters "The Death Zone."

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Samaan Lateef | New Delhi

In a harrowing incident on Mount Everest, a Malaysian climber narrowly escaped a life-threatening situation thanks to the courageous efforts of a Nepalese Sherpa guide, in what officials describe as a “very rare” high-altitude rescue.

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The incident unfolded on May 18 within the treacherous terrain known as the “death zone,” where temperatures plummet to as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius.

Gelje Sherpa, a 30-year-old guide, was leading a Chinese client on their ascent to conquer the summit of the world’s tallest peak, towering at 8,849 meters. It was during their climb that Gelje spotted a Malaysian climber desperately clinging to a rope, visibly battling the extreme cold.

Without hesitation, Gelje sprang into action, displaying exceptional courage and selflessness in the face of danger.

For the next arduous six hours, Gelje accompanied the stranded climber, meticulously guiding him 600 meters down from the treacherous Balcony area to the South Col. 

The rescue effort gained further assistance when Nima Tahi Sherpa, another experienced guide, joined in.

Together, braving treacherous terrain and harsh weather conditions, Gelje and Nima ensured the climber’s safety, employing various techniques such as wrapping him in a sleeping mat and taking turns carrying him on their backs as they navigated through deep snow.

“We wrapped the climber in a sleeping mat, dragged him through the snow, or took turns carrying him on our backs to Camp III,” Gelje told Reuters, underscoring the extraordinary measures taken to rescue the stranded climber.

The operation reached its climax as a helicopter, utilizing a long line, airlifted the climber from the 7,162-meter Camp III to the base camp. This achievement stands as a testament to the immense challenges faced during the mission.

Nepal’s Tourism Ministry official, Bigyan Koirala, acknowledged the extraordinary nature of the rescue, describing it as an almost impossible feat at such a high altitude. Gelje Sherpa’s heroic actions not only saved a life but defied the odds in one of the world’s most unforgiving environments.

Remarkably, Gelje managed to persuade his Chinese client to prioritize the rescue mission over their summit attempt, emphasizing the importance of saving a life above all else. This selfless devotion to the welfare of others embodies the true spirit of humanity and compassion.

To protect the privacy of the Malaysian climber, Tashi Lakhpa Sherpa, representing the Seven Summit Treks company responsible for logistical support, chose not to disclose the climber’s name. However, it was confirmed that the climber was safely transported back to Malaysia last week, marking the end of their challenging journey.

During the same time Muhammad Hawari Bin Hashim, a deaf and mute Malaysian climber who achieved the extraordinary feat of reaching the Everest summit on May 18, was reported missing upon his arrival at Camp IV. Nivesh Karki, director at Pioneer Adventure Pvt Ltd, revealed that Hawari lost contact with his team members who had embarked on a rescue operation for another Malaysian climber.

The incident takes place amidst a record-breaking climbing season on Mount Everest, with Nepal issuing a staggering 478 Everest permits between March and May. Unfortunately, this season has also witnessed a tragic toll, with at least 12 reported fatalities—the highest number in eight years. 

Among those lost is Awang Askandar Ampuan Yaacub, a senior Malaysian civil defense officer who tragically perished during his final ascent earlier this month.

As stories of triumph and tragedy continue to emerge from Mount Everest, Gelje Sherpa’s heroic rescue serves as a shining testament to the indomitable spirit of those who risk their lives on this awe-inspiring peak. It stands as a poignant reminder of the challenges faced by climbers and the unwavering dedication of Sherpa guides, who selflessly protect lives in the harshest of conditions.

ENDS

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